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Tech Tips

Mobile malware is gradually becoming a growing concern among smartphone users, because of the fact that a smartphone is not just a phone – it is a logbook which contains all the details about your online identity. Your email account password, bank details, Google Checkout information, PayPal account, Facebook, Twitter, YouTube – oh my!

Just imagine the scenario if anyone gets to access all this information through your hacked Android phone. A malware affected phone can have serious consequences, e.g. a spyware running on infected devices can collect your personal information and send it to eavesdroppers. Once your private information is tapped, the hacker can compromise your email accounts, empty your inbox and read all the archived email conversations.

This is just one example, there are other instances when a malware can delete all the data from your SD card or completely brick your device.

Here is a report which claims that more than 250,000 users were a victim of Android malware in the year 2011. Some noteworthy stats:

So how do you ensure that your Android phone stays clean and free from malware, spyware, rootkits and other online security threats. Here are some best practices, tips, do’s and don’ts every Android user should know:

1. Make sure the OS / Software is up to date and that you have installed the latest firmware: An updated operating system acts as the white blood cell of your device and protects it from infected applications or third party hack attempts. From time to time, check if a software upgrade is available or whether you need to update your device to its latest firmware. If you don’t know how to do this, seek help from someone whom you can trust.

Tip: Never drop your phone to a local shop/vendor for upgrading the software or firmware. On some occasions, these are the sources who infect your phone in order to reap recurring monetary advantage.

2. Do not install applications from third party apps or through .APK files: Always install applications from the Android market and avoid third party download sites. It is a good practice not to install applications through .APK files because the code of an APK file is completely unknown to everyone. It can only be read once it is installed and by the time it is installed, it might do the damage in the backyard.

3. Read reviews and user comments before you hit “Install”: Before you hit the “Download” button on any app install page, scroll down to the user reviews section. Read what people are saying about the application and cross check the public profile of the publisher. Is this developer new to the market? How many apps has he developed? How many people have downloaded his application and how many positive reviews his app has received?

It is also a good idea to Google the name of the application and check whether it has received reviews from popular technology blogs and forums. Remember to investigate other applications developed by the same publisher or company.

4. Check App permissions and privacy policy: Before installing an app, remember to read its privacy policy and the data it can access on your phone. Also check what permissions you’re granting to the app and whether these permissions really make sense. For example: if a game of Chess wants to access your email account and contacts list, you know it is asking for too much unnecessary data.

5. Be careful while using a public Wi-Fi connection: When you are using a public Wi-Fi connection (e.g a restaurant, airport or a library), make limited internet activities on your Android. It is highly recommended to turn off sync and close all running applications which you are not using at that moment. There are a slew of malicious scripts (like Firesheep) which can snoop username and passwords transmitted through an open Wi-Fi connection. Hence, it is strongly advised not to download apps, access banking websites, use Facebook or Email over a public Wi-Fi connection.

6. Install security apps, virus scanners and control spyware: Finally, you should install an efficient antivirus application on your Android and regularly scan your phone’s SD card for unnecessary files, executables, junk folders and temporary data. There are both free as well as paid malware scanners available in the Android market, but my favorite is Lookout mobile security, which routinely monitors every activity on my Android phone and alerts me whenever an application downloads malware or tries to install spyware into the system

Other useful security apps for your Android: Norton Mobile security lite, AVG antivirus free mobilation, NetQueen and Dr. Web Antivirus light.

It has been ten years since the first iPod appeared on the horizon (and that marks how long I have hated them), and since then Apple has made it extremely easy to fill up our iPod’s with music on the fly. However, the going’s not so easy when it comes to exporting music out of your iPod.

What if you want to backup your entire music collection from your iPod onto your desktop? Apple gives us no option to do that via iTunes. What do we do then? (Other than buy any other music device?)

Sharepod is the answer. For all of you who still think that apple isn't a food, but a technological master, this free program lets you get songs out of your iPod and into your PC. Additionally, Sharepod also helps you manage your iPod without using iTunes at all (definite bonus). Even things like editing song info and album art. As far as backing up music is concerned, you can click on the “Backup iPod” button to copy everything back to your computer. That’s not all, Sharepod gives you the option to backup individual songs or playlists as well. Just select the song/playlist and click on the “copy to PC” to button.

Sharepod

Once you click either of the buttons, Sharepod gives you the option to select the Location where you want it all to be copied.

Sharepod

It’s as simple as that. Now no need to fret and worry that you might lose your iPod music accidentally. Back it up all and sleep easy.

Click Here to Get Sharepod.

So, say you have an image you grabbed off the Internet and you want to find a larger size, but you can’t quite remember where you got the image in the first place? What do you do? Where do you go?

There’s gotta be an easy way, right?

Yep, there is, and you can find it at Google. It’s called Reverse Image Search. Just head over to Google.com and click the Images button in the upper left-hand corner. The page should reload and you should see a little camera icon in the search box.



Now, you have options here – you can either browse to where your image is on your computer, paste the URL of an image from another site (right-click on the image and select Copy image URL) or even drag and drop and image from your desktop into the search bar.



Whichever method you choose, after you hit the Search button Google will scour the internet for like-looking images to the one you uploaded. You can also click on the link at the bottom and watch a short video that offers more explanation.

What a great idea!

In the earlier articles, 32-Bit and 64-Bit Explained Part One, and Part Two, we attempted to define–and illustrate the differences between–the two system types. If you’d like to upgrade, your processor must be 64-bit capable. Here’s how to determine whether your system will support the change.

In Vista and Windows 7, type Performance Information in Start Search and click the Performance Information and Tools link.

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In Vista, click the view and print details link, found in the Performance Information and Tools dialog box.

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In Windows 7, click the View and print detailed performance and system information link.

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In both Vista and Windows 7, in the System section, look for the System type and, if yours is a 32-bit operating system, check for 64-bit capability.

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In XP, click the Start button, right-click on My Computer, and select Properties.

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In System Properties, if x64 Edition is listed under the General tab, you’re already running a 64-bit system.

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If nothing is indicated, you’re running a 32-bit system, but you may still be able to make the conversion to 64-bit.

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To learn whether or not your system is 64-bit compatible, download the Windows 7 Upgrade Advisor. As far as I could tell, no XP or Vista 64-bit upgrades are available from Microsoft. So, in addition to upgrading to 64-bit, XP or Vista systems will also be upgraded to Windows 7,

On the site, click the red Download button and follow the installation instructions. If you are wishing to keep your current version of Windows (XP or Vista) your only choice is to try buying a retail copy of them through a store, although they are becoming increasingly rare.

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Once installed, click the Start check button. This check may take some time.

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When the report is complete, click the 64-bit report tab at the top, to see what’s required in order to make the conversion.

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I hope this helped.

 

This is actually a question that has plagued geeks practically since the beginning of computers – and if you ask three geeks, odds are that you’ll get three different answers. Since theres variation, here’s my answer…

The idea of turning monitors off when not in use goes back to the days of monochrome CRT’s, PSS (Pre Screen Saver).  These things suffered a malady that has returned to plague plasma TV owners called “burn-in”.  That’s when an image is left on a screen for a long period of time, it literally “burns” into the screen.  Here’s a pic of an old Pac-man video arcade screen that has burned in.

burn-in

Bear in mind, as you look at this, that the screen is not only off, but also removed from the video game.  The situation is less serious on Plasma TVs, because a plasma screen will eventually “heal” a burn-in when it has had enough varying images displayed on it, whereas old CRT’s wouldn’t.

So back in the old days, when you had a mainframe or something that you had to leave on all the time, the common wisdom was to turn off the CRT’s when not in use to prevent burn-in.  Screen savers eliminated a lot of these problems because they could be set to display a shifting image of some sort.  With the advent of LCD’s, burn-in became largely a thing of the past for computers.

Now the main reason to turn your monitor off when not in use is to extend its life.  Modern LCD life spans are calculated in display hours.  The thing to bear in mind, though, is that the life expectancy of most modern LCD’s is somewhere around 100,000 hours.  How long is that?  Let’s put it this way… if you left your LCD on twenty four hours per day for ten years you would age it about 85,000 hours.  In other words, it’s not a real worry.

The primary reasons to shut off your CPU (tower) are two-fold.

This first is that you may want to shut it down when you’re not using it to save wear and tear on your machine.  Lots of little moving parts and things carrying electricity and stuff that wear out more quickly the more that they’re used.  There’s also the possibility that a power surge or something may hit that damages your machine if it’s on.

The second is that, every time that you run a program, little bits and pieces of that program are left in your RAM.  Enough of these little bits and pieces will eventually cause your machine to slow down. Because of this, I’d recommend that you reboot your machine at least once per day to clear these out.

The main reason to leave your CPU on is that it’s constantly in a “ready” state,so when you go to use it, it’s all ready to go.

One way to fix all of these problems (except for the bits left in your RAM) is to use your machine’s power options to turn your monitor off and put your machine to sleep after a certain amount of time inactive.  Then, when you’re ready to use your machine, all you have to do it click or move the mouse to wake the machine up. The only issue with this is if you bump the mouse while letting go of it it can start the computer back up. If you have a house which moves a bit when people walk heavily, that can do it too.

Hope that this helps.

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